Shoemaking - Introduction to Lasting

A selection of wooden lasts

The upper at first has no interior shape or fitting into which the foot can be placed. It is the work of the laster to draft the upper to the last so it will set to the shape of the last and retain it when the last is removed. Drafting means to mould the upper to the shape of the last by a series of ordered strains or pulls along the hollows of the last.

Drawing showing the order in which lasting strains are taken

In order to get that draft it is important that pullover strains should be taken in the correct order and places. Strains should be taken so that each successive strain does not interfere with previous ones. If transverse strains were taken before longitudinal ones it would prevent the upper from being strained enough in its length. The finished shoe would not hold its shape as a result. All strains should be of equal balance and strength or there will be a leaning towards those strains which were strongest when the last is withdrawn.

•          Hoisted method – used for hand lasting
•          Seats up method – used for machine lasting

Before an upper can be moulded to the last, the component parts must be prepared:

Insole

Diagram showing how the different shoe parts fit together

This must be firm and of sufficient substance to allow the laster to attach the upper until the bottom is secured. It should hold the upper out to the shape of the last and form a foundation upon which the rest of the bottom can be attached so its quality will vary according to the method of manufacture. For example, for welted, it must be pliable but firm enough to stand a good channel. For machine sewn, it must be soft and firm, backed with fibre board. For screwed work it must be stout because the strength depends on the number of threads in the insole.

Stiffener

It needs to be light but strong enough to enable it to keep its shape whilst being pliable. Its purpose is to replace the back section of the last and to a certain extent prevent the shoe from slipping in wear. It also helps to maintain the heel – toe strain set up in lasting, along with the toe puff.

Side Lining

These should connect up with the sides of the stiffener and toe puff to give support to the sides of the upper. They need to be soft and pliable because they cover the parts of the foot which require freedom of movement in walking.

Toe Puff

These are made from various materials which set hard but which can be reduced soft eg ession, toe-gum, felt and celluloid. They are inserted just before lasting and serve to reproduce the toe end of the last.

Rough Stuff Dept	Pricking & Stitchmarking	Folding, Beading & Burnishing	Machine Lasting	Pounding & Bottomfilling	Sole Attaching	Finishing	Glossary
Clicking	Skiving	Closing	Hand Lasting	Needles and Thread	Heels	Shoe Room