Shoemaking - Closing

A Rushden closing room

Upper closing at Eaton's factory, Rushden

Closing is one of the main processes in the making of a shoe. The caps, fronts and other parts come from the clicking department marked on their edges with different colours to denote the sizes and the lining stamped with the size, fitting, shape and sample number as a means of identification while the shoe was in the shoe room.

Traditionally, closing operatives were women.

Seaming

The perfect seam is that which offers the same resistance as the original material. Seams join the various sections together and have to be strong enough to withstand the strain of lasting and abrasive friction during manufacture and wear. Different seams have different appearances and uses:

• Lapped seam – the strongest seam in use, used to join caps to vamps
• Plain closed seam – 2 materials are stitched faced together and opened out. It is used for closing ladies backs
• Silked seams – a plain closed seam with silk tape attached on the underside, used for quarter linings
• Whipped seam – 2 materials stitched together face to face. The needle goes on and off and when the seam is opened out and rubbed flat, the stitch is not in a straight line but is curly.
• Zig zag – very similar to a whipped seam but does not require rubbing down. It is used for shoe and derby quarters covered by a backstrap
• Bagged – is part seam and part edge. 2 materials are stitched together face to face, opened out and bagged over
• Welted – 2 materials are stitched together with a narrow strip of leather inbetween

Seams can be stitched with silk, cotton or linen. Silk is elastic, strong and uniform. Its fine texture makes it suitable for high class work as its stitch appearance has a quality unobtainable by cotton. Cotton is also uniform and strong, and is capable of withstanding damp and fatigue.It makes a smooth, firm seam. Linen has a tendancy to be harsh and is used mainly for heavy leathers because of its strength and resistance to friction.

Closing operative at work

Machines

Two types of machines are used in the closing room:

• Sewing machines, which stitch at the discretion of the operator
• Semi-automatic, which work by having the sections presented by the operator, set in motion and the operation performed. Examples of these are the Flat Bed, Cylinder Arm and Post machine.

The first sewing machines were developed in America in the 1830’s and by 1851 Singer sewing machines were being produced in bulk.

Stitch formation

The tension must be correct and the stitch must bed down to the upper. The stitch must be in keeping with the style of the shoe, a light thread and stitch for ladies’ shoes, a medium thread and stitch for men’s while for heavy work the stitch must be longer and a stronger thread used. The number of rows of stitches necessary to balance the upper must be born in mind.

Cap rows must be evenly spaced and the cap attached to the vamp so it is in line with the throat. The stitch on caps should be 1/10” from the edge as this will give a good appearance. On perforated caps the stitch should be evenly balanced on each side of the perforation. On a peak wing cap the stitching should be carried well up into the peak so as to stop it lifting up.

Attaching the throat of an Oxford Shoe

The operative should start at the correct position on the stitchmarking line. The centre of the throat should be in alignment with the two quarters.

Drawing showing the attaching of the throat on an Oxford shoe

Facing Rows

These should be evenly spaced and the same stitch used as on the caps and the vamps. Care must be taken on fancy facings where stitchmarking is a great benefit.

Under Edge Trimming

The most important thing is to get the lining tight on top and get it drafted well forward. In under edge trimming, keep the work round when feeding into the machine and always centralise the lining and outsides. The same trimming allowance should be maintained throughout the operation

Drawing showing upper edge trimming

Attaching the backstrap.

Incorrect placing of the backstrap puts it out of shape which is detrimental to the shoe.

Drawing showing how the backstrap is attached

Eyeletting

Eyelets should be evenly spaced from both the top and the bottom

Drawing showing the correct spacing for eyelets

Front lining

Run on the front lining 1/16” from the edge. The stitch size should not be less than 12 to an inch.

Seams

These should be well rubbed down and taped with a stitch 1/16” from the edge. The top gives an added strength to the seam.

Colour marking

All points used for colour and size  should be very clear on all sections of the work not only to assist the closing operative but also for those in the lasting department.

Rough Stuff Dept	Pricking & Stitchmarking	Folding, Beading & Burnishing	Lasting	Machine Lasting	Sole Attaching	Finishing
Clicking	Skiving	Heels	Hand Lasting	Pounding & Bottomfilling	Needles and Thread	Shoe Room	Glossary