|Article by Sue Comont based on lecture notes from the Rushden Boot and Shoe School 1935 - 1936 and 1948 - 1950|
Shoemaking - Heels
A Cuban heel requires a taper lift according to the height of the heel and the tip of the last.
The lifts are stacked in the Hackney Stacking Machine. It is important to stack the lifts properly. The best results are obtained when all the lifts are of the same substance. If they are of uneven substance it is best to stack a stout and a light lift together. Two stout lifts together spoil the grade.
In stacking lifts there are three main points to remember:
Heels for outside attaching require three nails placed in the centre to hold the lifts together.
For inside attaching the heel requires five nails or pieces of wire spaced round the outside of the top lift clenched over on the bottom to keep the lifts tightly together.
Heels for outside attaching will only require compressing once but for inside attaching, after being first compressed, they will require the top piece attaching by slugging or studding and will need compressing again.
When compressing after slugging, a plate is used which has a groove around the outer rim so the slugs will sink into it, and when finishing, it will not be necessary to buff away half the top piece to clear the slugs.
The nails which are slightly tapered and rough, are left projecting 1/8” above the top lift and the top piece is pressed onto these to hold it temporarily in place until it is slugged.
The heel in this method must be made solid by having five nails placed evenly round the outer edge on the top lift and clenched on the bottom. The top piece should be breasted and slugged before being heeled. The attaching nails are of the screw type, with heads.
The top pieces are permanently attached by the slugging machine which cuts a slug with no head or point from a coil of brass or iron wire. The slugs attach the top piece and add to its wearing qualities.